What is the best way to train her not to go to the toilet indoors and how old should she be when I start to train her to sit, lay down etc…
Also any other tips or websites I’d really appreciate also.
Thanks in advance.
What is the best way to train her not to go to the toilet indoors and how old should she be when I start to train her to sit, lay down etc…
Also any other tips or websites I’d really appreciate also.
Thanks in advance.
After a dog has urinated or defecated in the house, obviously you will clean this up. Perhaps you think that you have got rid of the smell and your friends will possibly confirm this, however you dog will still be aware of a smell. Your dog thinks that your house is a bathroom; dogs have a much greater sense of smell than we have.
In the UK there is a washing powder to use in washing machines called Ariel get the BIOLOGICAL version and clean your carpets and your tiled floors with this. Put newspapers under the section of carpet that you have cleaned.
When you are sure that you have cleaned every part of the carpet that your dog has pooed or peed on, do the following.
Always pick your dog up and carry it into the yard/garden every time it wakes up, after it has been fed or had a drink. Hopefully you have a fenced yard, if not keep it on a lead. IF you dog urinates and when it is in full flow use a catch phrase I say “get oneâ€, always use the same catch phrase when your dog obliges. Then praise profusely afterwards, let your dog sniff around the yard/garden and play with it. Use your catchphrase for the rest of your dog’s life and when it’s an adult it will pee on command.
When you are sitting watching TV. and your dog is in the room with you, keep it on a lead and if it moves pick it up and take it out. Your dog will be unable to control its bladder or bowels during the night, however if it has produced a pee in the garden try to use a sheet of newspaper to absorb some of this. Put this sheet of newspaper on top of several others and your dog will use this as a bathroom during the night.
Don’t give your dog the run of the house and confine it to a small room, hopefully with a tiled floor at night. Do not chastise him when you find pee or poo on the floor when you get up the following day.
It is very difficult to house train a puppy if it’s left alone for a long period of time, try to stay with it as much as possible and restrict your social life for a while. This will pay huge dividends and your puppy will feel more secure.
Other training can start ASAP and if you are gentle, kind and give your dog lots of praise your dog will enjoy training. Do take her to a training class.
http://ezinearticles.com/?6-Basic-Dog-Tr…
After about 8 weeks you can start to train your pup. Make it simple and fun and short sessions throughout the day.
Housetraining:
Management is the most effective tool you have. Baby gates or a playpen to keep puppy in the same room you are in, or leash her to your chair or belt so she can’t ever be more than a leash length away at any time. If you do not see her, she’s probably going potty. If you have to answer the phone or make dinner, put her in her crate or a playpen in the room you are in. By confining her to a small place, like an airline kennel, you will teach her to wait to be let out. She will be more reluctant to soil her crate, because if she does she will be forced to sit and look at it and smell it until you return. When you do let her out, take her directly to her assigned toilet area and praise for quick results. Take her outside( or to her assigned toilet area) on an unfailingly regular schedule – every hour on the hour and make every outing a party with cheering and cookies. Remember, this is not forever, just until she is housetrained.
Watch your dog constantly. One of your first duties is to identify what your dog does right before she eliminates. Does your dog sniff? Circle? Pause mid step / ear twitch / sniffing pattern, hold her ears in a certain position? Some dogs provide signals that are easy to spot, while others are more difficult. Watch carefully. Just as the dog begins to show signs, you can redirect (shake a rattle can to stop the potty action then pick up your pet and head outside-or to the potty area) and respond with enthusiasm, to go OUTSIDE (or on the pad). Once outside, stay with her until you witness the desired results and praise her as she goes. “Good, go potty outside!” Make her feel that she is the most special dog in the whole world. STAY with them until they go.
If you don’t stay, you’ll miss the chance to praise and you’ll also miss the chance to name the behavior. “Outside” is where she needs to go, “Go potty”, “Find a tree”, or, “Do your business” (call it what you like) is what she needs to do when she gets there. If you stay with her, you’ll also know for a fact that both duties were accomplished before she comes back in. Many young puppies are distraught about being separated from their owners. They may spend the entire time while outside just sitting on the porch. It’s unlikely that your pup will want to ask to go outside if it is a negative experience to be separated from the security of its family.
Feed and exercise on a regular schedule. Remember, what goes in regularly, will come out regularly. How soon after she eats does she need to go out? Keep track, usually within an hour. Free-choice feeding may hamper your house training efforts – what trickles in will trickle out unpredictably! Your dog will probably need to go out immediately upon waking in the morning, soon after eating, after napping, and after exercising. If you can anticipate when she needs to go and hustle her to the appropriate spot at the first sign, you’ll avoid accidents.
Potty pads are one more step to get rid of if the ultimate goal is to get your pup to go outside, so if you must have an indoor toileting area in the interim, try a low sided tray with a piece of sod or dirt – copy the surface of the intended outside target. At first, keep your puppy in a small area like the kitchen and cover the entire floor with pads. There can be NO MISTAKES!! Then slowly remove all the pads except in the exact area you want them to go on. You can also move the tray closer and closer to the outside door, until one day it’s on the other side. Use the above method to direct the pup to the “correct†pad area. In the long run, having an indoor potty area will slow down the process of getting the pup to go outside, so avoid it if you can.
If your puppy has already soiled on the carpet or floor, it is imperative that you get a good enzyme cleaner to rid the area of any smell, remember your dog can smell what you can not, and that odor triggers the elimination response. Make sure you are neutralizing odor on all the spots they use. Fresh spots will respond to white vinegar, but if a spot has dried before treatment, you need a bacterial enzyme odor eliminator product such as Nature’s Miracle. Either way, the product needs to soak deeply into the carpet pad. If she has an accident, swat yourself with the rolled up newspaper, not the dog. It was your fault for not watching her closely enough! Rubbing her nose in it (yuck!), scolding or hitting will only teach her to avoid you when she feels the need, rather than come find you. Scolding the dog only teaches the dog to sneak off down the hall where you won’t see her. Remember, she loves you and wants to do what is right, she just doesn’t know what that is yet.
Summary:
1. Never leave a puppy unattended. A Puppy you can not see is eliminating in the wrong place. Use play pens, leashing the dog to your belt, or a kennel to help contain your puppy.
2. Kennels or crates should be large enough for the animal to stand up, turn around and lay back down. If the dog can walk or step in the crate, they will eliminate in it. Never leave a puppy in the crate more than the recommended time.
3. SCHEDULE. Take the puppy out for elimination first thing in the morning, then about 45 minutes after scheduled meals, last thing at night, after napping and after exercise.
4. Watch for elimination signals from the puppy.
5. When you take the puppy to the elimination area, take her directly to her assigned toilet area and praise for quick results.
6. Stay with your puppy to avoid separation anxiety, ensure she does all she is suppose to do, and gets praised quickly for the correct results.
7. Be sure to name the activity so later your dog will eliminate on command
8. If your puppy has already soiled on the carpet or floor, it is imperative that you get a good enzyme cleaner to rid the area of any smell. Any smell left will trigger the pup to go again. Natures Miracle or a similar enzyme cleaner is the most effective. Rubbing her nose in it (yuck!), scolding or hitting will only teach her that you can not be a leader (you are pretty stupid if you think don’t want anyone to ever go potty), she will learn to hide her elimination, she will learn to worry about you when you leave the room, because when your return, you are angry,,,so you have just increased separation anxiety. BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU ARE TEACHING YOUR YOUNG ONE.
Good luck
Take your puppy out frequently to do her business. When she does it in the right place, reward her every time with praise and/or treats. Just keep in mind that the more treats you give her the more you’ll have to take her potty! ; )
get hold of a book called “The Dog Whisperer” by Jan fennell. It will become your bible, I still refer to mine both for myself and in order to help friends.It is straight forward, common sense stuff, give it a good read.
one of the best things is to hire a trainer because it’s not what the puppy needs to know it’s what you need to know.
Me and my girlfriend have 5 dogs between us we hired Bark Busters and learn that we needed just as much training as the dogs
Check out Sharda Bakers website and I would highly recommend her e-book on training.It takes you from puppy to adult and has tons of info.
I LOVE dogs! I used to have a westie called Gucci who i trained.
Start with the simple things like sit.
Get a treat, e.g. a dog food stick, and hold it in front of them, say the word sit and lightly push on their back near their bum and into a sitting position. Get them to stay there and then give tyhem the treat, Do this often and they’ll soon get the idea, the sooner they sit down the sooner they get the treat! (Make sure you say the word SIT)
This can work with most tricks.
Good luck!
Don’t push on your dog too ard, it might hurt him/her. I want another dog, actually i want two. I’m gonna call them Gin and Tonic, Gin for the girl as it can be short for Ginny. Lol. 🙂
Good luck!
X Little miss pieX
Hey! I recently got a new puppy as well, and the best thing I ever did was purchase Puppy Pads! I got them at Med Net Direct, and my puppy loved them, Snickers was potty trained in no time. If you can potty train your dog- the rest will come easy! Good Luck 🙂
the best way to train the puppy is when u feed it or give it water after take it outside and when it goes to the toilet give it a treat and praise her and soon she will learn
Here you go, i have some links here that will help you very well into getting your dog to be the most obedienced dog you would have ever seen, these were some links of mine i used to find ways to train my dogs and now my dog is like an angel made only for me! I wish you the best with your puppy and you! 🙂
http://newimproveddog.com/
http://www.agooddog.net
http://www.abcantra.com
http://www.acsdogs.com
http://www.puppydoghelper.com
http://www.thuntek.net/dogtrain
Good Luck! 🙂
one of the best things is to hire a trainer because it’s not what the puppy needs to know it’s what you need to know.
Me and my girlfriend have 5 dogs between us we hired Bark Busters and learn that we needed just as much training as the dogs.
We were commenting the other day as to how much more enjoyable our life’s are since training.
Even if you did some of the PetSmart training would be good but for the buck you can’t beat Bark Busters
Housebreaking Accidents
Using the bathroom in the house is a time-honored tradition in the puppy world. But, there is hope for your pup. With positive reinforcement for using the potty outside, and vigilance combined with cratetraining to prevent indoor mishaps, your pup will be housetrained in no time. For those unavoidable accidents, be sure to clean thoroughly with a odor neutralizer, or your pup will seek out that spot again.
Digging
Digging is a common problem for dog owners. Most dogs dig out of boredom and frustration, so make sure your pup gets plenty of exercise, mental stimulation and affection. If your pooch tends to target a specific area, try burying some of its own feces in the spot, or bury chicken wire to create an unpleasant sensation.
Some dogs were just born to dig. Terriers, in particular, were bred to tunnel after verminit’s hard to fight genetics. The best you can do is supply a soft-earthed digging spot in your backyard and teach your digging dog that this is the proper place to expend that excess energy. Terrier owners recommend building a sandbox, then burying tasty treats to encourage your dog to dig there, instead of your flower garden.
Nipping
Ouch! Those puppy teeth hurt. Most puppies nip, so it’s your job to teach them to control that bite. Littermates will teach each other some bite restrainthard biters are not popular playmatesbut you’ll have to expand on that learning once pup is in your home.
When pup nips, say, “Ow!” in a voice loud enough to startle it. Make the pitch lower if your exclamation seems to provoke more nipping. Give the pup love when the nips stop. Another method is to gently push your fingers farther into the pup’s mouth when it nips. It will not like this sensation and quickly associates nipping with an unpleasant feeling.
Barking
If you’ve ever lived next door to a barking dog, you know how aggravating this behavior is. Like digging, most dogs bark out of boredom and frustration. The best way to address the problem is provide more exercise, more mental games and more attention. For protective dogs that bark at even innocuous trespassers (like that squirrel crossing the garden), teach the enough command after the alert bark.
Jumping Up
Ack! Some dogs are chronic jumping beans. It seems that whatever you do, you just can’t keep them down. There are many tricks to tackling this problem, but most importantly, never encourage your pup to jump. Really, that pouncing puppy won’t miraculously stop jumping at adulthood! Keep greetings low key and squat to pup’s level when saying hi. Ask all your guests to do this, too. If pup continues to jump up, simply ignore it until the jumping stops, then lavish your now-calm pup with affection. Attention, even negative, reinforces this behavior.
Running Away
Some breeds are prone to roaming. Step one to avoiding a pup with wanderlustget it neutered. This can do wonders to stop a roaming male. Other ways to discourage your canine traveler: Teach a diehard reliable recall; never, ever chase your dog; provide it with plenty of exercise and mental stimulation; and, if all else fails, invest in a foolproof fence.
Chewing
Oh, those canine chompers! They’ll be the death of pet owners, yet. It’s amazing how much destruction those tiny teeth have wrought. No. 1 rule for discouraging chewing: Provide lots of super fun chew toys. Make sure they are toys your pup likes. If it doesn’t like plush toys, offer a rope toy or nylon bone. If that doesn’t work, get serious with a peanut butter-filled Kong, knucklebone or pig hoof. When you catch pup gnawing on no-chew items, simply remove the item with a firm, calm “no,” then offer one of pup’s chew toys with a “good dog” when it accepts it.
Pulling on Leash
Unfortunately, pups with this problem often do not receive enough exercise. Even if they do get walks, both owner and pooch are frustrated with their blocks-long battles.
Accustom your pup to being on a leash right away. Teach it that a loose leash is rewarded with forward movement and that pulling only gets it stuck in one spot. When pup pulls, stop. If pup continues to pull, turn around and walk in another direction. Be consistent with this, and your dog will quickly learn what behavior is rewarded with a pleasurable excursion.
For pups that continue to pull, try a head halter. The head halter will simply turn the dog around when it tries to pull. As an added benefit, the head halter exerts pressure on the top of the snout, which calms dogs and even decreases aggression.
Dog-dog Aggression
Socialize is the word of the day! Once dog aggression is established, it’s difficult to train it away. Prevent aggression from the start by socializing your pup with dogs of all types, sizes and ages. A pup with plenty of non-threatening, fun and safe canine experiences will usually love other dogs. Don’t let your pup pick up on your stress when meeting other dogs. Keep the leash slack and be jolly.
Getting on Furniture
Establish furniture rules from the start and be consistent. If you don’t want your puppy on your furniture as an adult, don’t allow it on furniture as a pup: This is the key to fur-free furniture. If pup sneaks up onto furniture, simply lift it off with a firm “no,” and place it on the floor, then reward with affection and a treat or toy.
What breed? This matters a lot, different breeds require different technique in some cases.
Training starts now, but only do it for 10-20 minutes a day for the first few months, you want the pup to look forward to each session with you.
For potty training, 5 minutes after eating and drinking take her outside, when she goes outside praise her and say “outside”, take her outside every time she wakes up. Crate training will also help with housetraining because they do not want to mess where they sleep.
Sit – Take a piece of hot dog, put it up over her head, take two fingers press down on her butt till she sits, as soon as she sits, put the hotdog in her mouth. Always teach sit and come first.
Come – Make kissing noises, and say come don’t use the pups name yet, as it is not important.
Down – After you have mastered the sit, from a sitting position, with food in your hand drag it across the floor, and usually the pup will down, trying to get to it, reward.
Jumping – When she jumps on you, ignore her and say OFF, when all paws are on the ground, pet her, she thinks by jumping on you it will get your attention.
Release – say out while you put the piece of food in her face, praise.
Biting – Whine, I like to nuzzle my face against theirs to show affection, usually the puppy will kiss you. Another thing you can try is put something in her mout she can chew on.
Focus – Teach an “eyes” command, everytime the pup looks you in the eyes, put something in her mouth.
Heeling – (teach eye focus first) I start heeling offleash with food. With the food in your left hand, have the puppy follow the food into a heeling position (teaching to go behind you into a heeling position is easier) you should have her look you in the eyes while waiting for you to start walking. Do this until she gets it. Slowly, start walking, only a few steps at a time, making the kissing sound, and holding the food up to your face When she walks in front of you stop, say “aaattt – heel” and with the food in your hand lead her back to proper positioning.
Well, what I did, is I followed a course
http://trainyourdog.nfshost.com
You should get something like that.
Or get a tutor. Or a book. Anything goes.